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Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX

4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars 4,960 ratings

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Purchase options and add-ons

Brand Genie
Color Gray
Material Plastic
Style Wired
Item Weight 2.4 ounces

About this item

  • MULTI-FUNCTION WALL CONSOLE: The Genie series II wall console will open and close your garage door, turn the lights on the garage door opener on and off, and lock out remotes when you are on vacation
  • FAST & EASY INSTALLATION: The Genie Series II wall control panel is easy to install, and replaces your other series II wall consoles with just attaching two wires, and held in by two screws
  • REPLACEMNT MODEL: This Genie series II wall control panel/ wall console replaces older style series ii Genie wall console models: GBWC2-BX, GPWC-BX, GWC-2, GPWC-2WLB
  • BACK LIGHT: This wall console has a back light on the larger button so you can see which button you are pressing even in the dark.
See more product details

Customer ratings by feature

Easy to install
4.9 4.9
Easy to use
4.7 4.7
Lock Feature
4.7 4.7
Durability
4.7 4.7

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Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX
Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX
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Price$28.99$19.99$16.99$15.99$24.99$59.99
Delivery
Get it as soon as Tuesday, Mar 26
Get it as soon as Tuesday, Mar 26
Get it as soon as Tuesday, Mar 26
Get it as soon as Tuesday, Mar 26
Get it as soon as Tuesday, Mar 26
Get it as soon as Tuesday, Mar 26
Customer Ratings
Easy to install
4.9
4.7
4.9
4.4
4.8
3.9
Value for money
4.6
4.4
4.6
4.0
4.4
3.6
Easy to use
4.7
4.6
4.6
Motion detection
3.6
3.7
4.0
Sold By
Amazon.com
US Nexjy Part
xuqianshangmao
Dreamyo
Pattern.
Amazon.com
size
Wired Wall Console
39165R
1 Pack
Aladdin Connect Kit
style
Wired
Modern
Modern
Modern
Modern
Aladdin Connect Kit
assembly required
weight
0.15 pounds
0.06 pounds
2.08 ounces
0.2 pounds
0.2 pounds
1 pounds

Product information

Technical Details

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Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX


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Product Description

The Genies Multi-function Series II wired garage door opener wall console Featuring Sure Lock Mode with new Slide Lock Design replaces an Genie Series II wall console manufactured since 1995. This wall control panel will not work on Genie Series III wall consoles. Installation of the multi-function wall control panel/console, is easy installs with just 2 screws. You have the ability to lockout remotes when you are on vacation, control your garage door openers lights, and open and close your garage door.

WARNING:

CHOKING HAZARD -- Small parts. Not for children under 3 yrs.

Important information

Legal Disclaimer

This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

Customer reviews

4.7 out of 5 stars
4.7 out of 5
4,960 global ratings

Customers say

Customers like the performance, ease of installation, and replacement of the hardware. For example, they mention it works perfectly, the instructions are clear, and it's easy to replace the original switch. Customers are also impresseded with the visibility, and appearance. That said, opinions are mixed on the buttons and quality.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

523 customers mention491 positive32 negative

Customers are satisfied with the performance of the switch. They mention that it works perfectly, is easy to use, and does what it should. Some say that the switch was easy to install and worked immediately without any fiddling around. Overall, most are happy with their purchase and recommend it to others.

"...It was easy to install and worked immediately without any fiddling around." Read more

"Works fantastic with an Overhead Door Python Chain Glide. Perfect wall mount. Great Price!" Read more

"...Simple to install and works great." Read more

"Installed two wires and working as stated. No issues." Read more

436 customers mention428 positive8 negative

Customers find the installation of the hardware to be simple with only two wires to connect. They say the instructions are clear, and the button is larger than the original versions, making it easier for kids.

"...It was easy to install. The instructions were clear." Read more

"...It was easy to install and worked immediately without any fiddling around." Read more

"...Simple to install and works great." Read more

"Arrived early & easy to install with light." Read more

122 customers mention122 positive0 negative

Customers find the replacement to be easy to install. They say it's a simple replacement part that replaces the original switch. Customers also mention that it works as expected, and is an exact replacement for their existing button.

"This is a pretty simple replacement part. For what it is, it should cost no more than $10-$15. The price it sells for is double what is reasonable...." Read more

"...Great replacement. I have a few photos showing the old doorbell type button and the new one...." Read more

"Good replacement for old control" Read more

"It was easy to replace. Very happy." Read more

96 customers mention90 positive6 negative

Customers appreciate the value of the hardware. They say it is good value for the money, worth the purchase, and easy to install.

"...Perfect wall mount. Great Price!" Read more

"...Super easy to install, two screws and two wires. Good price point as well." Read more

"...It’s a cheap addition to raise the level of security. Kinda like putting long screws in all the door hinges...." Read more

"...I bought this console from Amazon Vendor Preferred Doors. The price was great, shipping was fast, and I will definitely buy from them again." Read more

87 customers mention87 positive0 negative

Customers are satisfied with the visibility of the door opener. They mention that it's back-lit, has a manual light button, and has lighted buttons. Some appreciate the red glow light, which is very bright. Overall, most are happy with the product's visibility and functionality.

"...And the light inside it is pretty bright...." Read more

"...These openers also have much brighter lights on the buttons." Read more

"worked great, fixed the light issue we were having" Read more

"...It's also back-lit which i'm able to see if i need to while i'm in my dark garage for some reason...." Read more

70 customers mention59 positive11 negative

Customers like the appearance of the door opener. They say it has a modernized design, with a different layout and lighting design that is more friendly. They also say it matches perfectly with their existing door opener and is easy to install. Customers also appreciate the crisp buttons and the red glow. Overall, customers are happy with the appearance and functionality of the product.

"...This replacement is also a better design than the original." Read more

"...Overall, great product, happy with the new modernized design." Read more

"...Love the red glow as well, it's like HAL!" Read more

"Matches up with my current door opener, easy to setup" Read more

141 customers mention93 positive48 negative

Customers are mixed about the buttons. Some mention that the large lighted button is perfect, while others say that the light feature does not work.

"...The new button works great. It is huge compared to the old button, and all alone, so you don't have to worry about turning on the opener light when..." Read more

"NICE LARGE RED UP/DOWN BUTTON LIGHTS UP LOVE IT NICE BUTTON FOR ON/OFF LIGHT ONLY LOVE IT AND YOU CAN LOCK THE SYSTEM IF YOU WANT WORKED WITH MY..." Read more

"...It solved the problem of the garage door opener not working." Read more

"...It used the same two screw holes as the old switch. The large red button is hard to miss to open or close the door...." Read more

94 customers mention57 positive37 negative

Customers are mixed about the quality of the garage door opener. For example some mention it's well made and easy to install, while others say it'll last for years. That said, opinions are mixed.

"Works fantastic with an Overhead Door Python Chain Glide. Perfect wall mount. Great Price!" Read more

"...What is disheartening is that the original switch only lasted five years, not a good quality in my opinion as the switch at my prior home was nearly..." Read more

"Ease of installing. Quality of product. Performance of new switch." Read more

"...I like the solid feel when pressing the door switch. However, I preferred the older push button style of lock...." Read more

Easy to install and a nice replacement for the old original
5 Stars
Easy to install and a nice replacement for the old original
After she pushed it for the first time, my wife said "thank you, thank you!" This was of course followed by "why did you wait so long to replace the old one if this was so easy to do?" "Umm, because I was waiting for the price to drop?" or "It seemed like it was going to be a lot harder to do and I just hadn't found the time on my Honey-do list." Anyway, now that this is installed and all done, my wife thanks me every time she uses it instead of cursing the old button every time it didn't work correctly. Which was pretty often.Anyway, on to the "Wall Console," hereafter referred to as the button. The old one was installed when the house was built in 1996, and had been sticking for several years. Sometimes it would double-click, which would mean you'd have to push twice. Once to close the door that had opened 1" and then stopped, and once again to open. And hope that it didn't double-click again (which it did on more than one occasion). The other neat trick the old button would do was to get stuck in the depressed position, which rendered the whole system inoperable. All pretty annoying. If you wonder why it took so long for me to replace it: My wife parks her car in the garage, while mine parks in the driveway and I use the front door. :)The new button works great. It is huge compared to the old button, and all alone, so you don't have to worry about turning on the opener light when you meant to open the door (or vice versa). And the light inside it is pretty bright. If you didn't notice the big black box all by itself on the wall, you'd certainly notice the red light.(And in case you are wondering from the picture, the green painters tape on the grab bar was to provide some contrast in a field of white for the person using it, who due to glaucoma has a limited field of vision).And, now on to the installation.(I am going to first assume that this is a replacement button and not a first time install. For that, you'd also need to run a two-conductor wire from the button to the garage door opener)Installing this button as a direct replacement couldn't be easier. At least if you have a short garage ceiling. Mine is a little over 10 feet tall, meaning I had to get the ladder out of its hiding place behind piles of junk in order to reach the plug to unplug the garage door opener (step number 1 in replacing the button). Why didn't I just turn off the breaker? Because the genius that built my house wired the garage lights in with the same outlet the opener is plugged in to. And I didn't open the garage door because it was nighttime when I was working. Also during late fall. And the garage faces to the Northwest, so all the cold wind blows right in.That squirrel put to bed, after you have unpacked the box the button came with and have all the tools mentioned in the box (if you are replacing an existing Genie button, you may only need a #2 Philips screwdriver), step 1 of the installation is to unplug your garage door opener (or flip the circuit breaker). Step 2 is to unscrew the old button. Once off the wall, there should be two wires leading into the back of the existing button. Do not disconnect them yet. Take the new button and check to see that the screw holes line up. If they line up, you can skip the next few paragraphs.Tools need for this step(s): Pencil or thin-bodied pen, Philips screwdriver, a tape measure at least 5 feet long, a power drill with various bits <1/4", Small hammer (or very big thumb). Optional equipment would be a stud-detector.If you need to drill new holes for the new button, there are instructions in the box, but you will need a small drill (I don't remember the exact size, but it is less than 1/4"). Once you have found a spot on the wall next to the door where you would like to have the button, mark the locations for the screws by inserting your pencil or pen through the screw holes on the from of the new button and drawing around the outside of the hole. (And per many building codes, they should ideally be 50" up from the floor or step, to keep small children from playing with the garage door and getting hurt). The optional step of looking for a stud, so that you don't need to use the plastic anchors requires the use of a stud-detector, and is outlined a following paragraph. I always start by first drilling a small pilot hole, usually with a 3/32" drill bit to make sure I'm not over a stud. In order to do that, the drill bit has to stick out at least 1" from the drill to get through the drywall. Your drill should go easily through drywall, but less so through wood. The other thing to look for is wood on the end of the drill bit. The 3rd test is to not drill to the full depth of the drill. After you are done drilling and the drill is off, push the drill bit back in the hole. If you are over a stud, you won't be able to push any farther. If there is no stud behind the wall, there will be no resistance felt. If you had drilled a 1/4" hole and gone into a stud too far, you then would have trouble using either type of fastener (screwing directly into the stud, or the plastic inserts). Once you have determined whether you are into a stud or in just drywall, you can then either move on (stud) or pull out the larger drill bit (drywall) and drill the holes to the larger size. After you've done that, now is where the small hammer or big thumb comes in. You need to push/lightly tap the plastic inserts into the holes, flush with the drywall. I like to try putting the screws in now, either into the studs or into the inserts once the inserts are in the wall, just not all the way in, to make sure they will work. If you have difficulty screwing into the stud, you may need a slightly larger pilot hole. Now is the time to find out, not when you have the button halfway mounted on the wall. If the inserts spin when you are just starting the screw, you may need a bigger size or different type of fastener (unfortunately, drywall comes in different thicknesses and grades, and also gets more brittle with age, so what works in a 20 year old house may not work in a 50 year old house. )For help finding studs next to doorways, most doors will have two studs against either side of the door, which may or may not be touching. You can often find the location of the outermost stud by looking at the location of the light switches next to the door, as they will (usually) be attached to that stud. The next stud may be 16" center to center, or the inside and outside edges of the stud will be about 14.5" and 16" from the door side edge of the switch plate. The reason I say may is that while (most) wall studs are placed on 16" centers, doors usually don't fit in those dimensions, so the gap on either side of the door is likely to be smaller. In the case of my door, the light switch pictured is on the inside of a stud and the button is over the next stud (but off to one side enough to cover the hole where the wire comes through the drywall, so the center to center distance is about 6" instead of 16?). But using a stud detector often starts with a tape measure and knowing where a stud "should" be, so you will know what your detector signal looks like when it finds one. Also, since studs generally are on 16" centers, finding one will usually help in finding others.After you are ready to mount the button to the wall (but before you actually mount it), turn over the button and you will notice two screws on the bottom of the button. These correspond to the two screws on the old button. You simply need to unscrew one wire from the old button and transfer the wire to a terminal (screw) on the new button, and then do the same thing with the second wire. Having done this, turn the new button over, place it against the wall, making sure you aren't pinching the wires (there is a little slot for surface mounted wires to exit) and insert the previously started screws (you did remember to take them out?) and tighten them down. Now all you have to do is plug your garage door back in (or turn on the circuit breaker) and your new button should work like a charm.In fact, it probably took me far longer to type this out than it did to install the button. Of course, I had holes that mostly lined up (I think I actually had to drill a new hole for one of the screws, thinking back now).
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5.0 out of 5 stars Easy to install and a nice replacement for the old original
Reviewed in the United States on December 29, 2018
After she pushed it for the first time, my wife said "thank you, thank you!" This was of course followed by "why did you wait so long to replace the old one if this was so easy to do?" "Umm, because I was waiting for the price to drop?" or "It seemed like it was going to be a lot harder to do and I just hadn't found the time on my Honey-do list." Anyway, now that this is installed and all done, my wife thanks me every time she uses it instead of cursing the old button every time it didn't work correctly. Which was pretty often.

Anyway, on to the "Wall Console," hereafter referred to as the button. The old one was installed when the house was built in 1996, and had been sticking for several years. Sometimes it would double-click, which would mean you'd have to push twice. Once to close the door that had opened 1" and then stopped, and once again to open. And hope that it didn't double-click again (which it did on more than one occasion). The other neat trick the old button would do was to get stuck in the depressed position, which rendered the whole system inoperable. All pretty annoying. If you wonder why it took so long for me to replace it: My wife parks her car in the garage, while mine parks in the driveway and I use the front door. :)

The new button works great. It is huge compared to the old button, and all alone, so you don't have to worry about turning on the opener light when you meant to open the door (or vice versa). And the light inside it is pretty bright. If you didn't notice the big black box all by itself on the wall, you'd certainly notice the red light.

(And in case you are wondering from the picture, the green painters tape on the grab bar was to provide some contrast in a field of white for the person using it, who due to glaucoma has a limited field of vision).

And, now on to the installation.

(I am going to first assume that this is a replacement button and not a first time install. For that, you'd also need to run a two-conductor wire from the button to the garage door opener)

Installing this button as a direct replacement couldn't be easier. At least if you have a short garage ceiling. Mine is a little over 10 feet tall, meaning I had to get the ladder out of its hiding place behind piles of junk in order to reach the plug to unplug the garage door opener (step number 1 in replacing the button). Why didn't I just turn off the breaker? Because the genius that built my house wired the garage lights in with the same outlet the opener is plugged in to. And I didn't open the garage door because it was nighttime when I was working. Also during late fall. And the garage faces to the Northwest, so all the cold wind blows right in.

That squirrel put to bed, after you have unpacked the box the button came with and have all the tools mentioned in the box (if you are replacing an existing Genie button, you may only need a #2 Philips screwdriver), step 1 of the installation is to unplug your garage door opener (or flip the circuit breaker). Step 2 is to unscrew the old button. Once off the wall, there should be two wires leading into the back of the existing button. Do not disconnect them yet. Take the new button and check to see that the screw holes line up. If they line up, you can skip the next few paragraphs.

Tools need for this step(s): Pencil or thin-bodied pen, Philips screwdriver, a tape measure at least 5 feet long, a power drill with various bits <1/4", Small hammer (or very big thumb). Optional equipment would be a stud-detector.

If you need to drill new holes for the new button, there are instructions in the box, but you will need a small drill (I don't remember the exact size, but it is less than 1/4"). Once you have found a spot on the wall next to the door where you would like to have the button, mark the locations for the screws by inserting your pencil or pen through the screw holes on the from of the new button and drawing around the outside of the hole. (And per many building codes, they should ideally be 50" up from the floor or step, to keep small children from playing with the garage door and getting hurt). The optional step of looking for a stud, so that you don't need to use the plastic anchors requires the use of a stud-detector, and is outlined a following paragraph. I always start by first drilling a small pilot hole, usually with a 3/32" drill bit to make sure I'm not over a stud. In order to do that, the drill bit has to stick out at least 1" from the drill to get through the drywall. Your drill should go easily through drywall, but less so through wood. The other thing to look for is wood on the end of the drill bit. The 3rd test is to not drill to the full depth of the drill. After you are done drilling and the drill is off, push the drill bit back in the hole. If you are over a stud, you won't be able to push any farther. If there is no stud behind the wall, there will be no resistance felt. If you had drilled a 1/4" hole and gone into a stud too far, you then would have trouble using either type of fastener (screwing directly into the stud, or the plastic inserts). Once you have determined whether you are into a stud or in just drywall, you can then either move on (stud) or pull out the larger drill bit (drywall) and drill the holes to the larger size. After you've done that, now is where the small hammer or big thumb comes in. You need to push/lightly tap the plastic inserts into the holes, flush with the drywall. I like to try putting the screws in now, either into the studs or into the inserts once the inserts are in the wall, just not all the way in, to make sure they will work. If you have difficulty screwing into the stud, you may need a slightly larger pilot hole. Now is the time to find out, not when you have the button halfway mounted on the wall. If the inserts spin when you are just starting the screw, you may need a bigger size or different type of fastener (unfortunately, drywall comes in different thicknesses and grades, and also gets more brittle with age, so what works in a 20 year old house may not work in a 50 year old house. )

For help finding studs next to doorways, most doors will have two studs against either side of the door, which may or may not be touching. You can often find the location of the outermost stud by looking at the location of the light switches next to the door, as they will (usually) be attached to that stud. The next stud may be 16" center to center, or the inside and outside edges of the stud will be about 14.5" and 16" from the door side edge of the switch plate. The reason I say may is that while (most) wall studs are placed on 16" centers, doors usually don't fit in those dimensions, so the gap on either side of the door is likely to be smaller. In the case of my door, the light switch pictured is on the inside of a stud and the button is over the next stud (but off to one side enough to cover the hole where the wire comes through the drywall, so the center to center distance is about 6" instead of 16?). But using a stud detector often starts with a tape measure and knowing where a stud "should" be, so you will know what your detector signal looks like when it finds one. Also, since studs generally are on 16" centers, finding one will usually help in finding others.

After you are ready to mount the button to the wall (but before you actually mount it), turn over the button and you will notice two screws on the bottom of the button. These correspond to the two screws on the old button. You simply need to unscrew one wire from the old button and transfer the wire to a terminal (screw) on the new button, and then do the same thing with the second wire. Having done this, turn the new button over, place it against the wall, making sure you aren't pinching the wires (there is a little slot for surface mounted wires to exit) and insert the previously started screws (you did remember to take them out?) and tighten them down. Now all you have to do is plug your garage door back in (or turn on the circuit breaker) and your new button should work like a charm.

In fact, it probably took me far longer to type this out than it did to install the button. Of course, I had holes that mostly lined up (I think I actually had to drill a new hole for one of the screws, thinking back now).
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malasu
5.0 out of 5 stars Totalmete recomendable
Reviewed in Spain on August 6, 2018
Color Name: GrayVerified Purchase
Chadwick Derocher
5.0 out of 5 stars Awesome
Reviewed in Canada on December 29, 2022
Color Name: GrayVerified Purchase
Douglas Berner
5.0 out of 5 stars This device worked perfectly for my Series II Genie garage door opener.
Reviewed in Canada on January 26, 2021
Color Name: GrayVerified Purchase
Songspec
5.0 out of 5 stars Easy installation
Reviewed in Canada on October 2, 2021
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GANG SUN
4.0 out of 5 stars Good purchase
Reviewed in Canada on April 16, 2023
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