As Curtis mentioned, this gimbal is worthy if you have the guts to tackle it’s construction that is obviously made to NEVER be disassembled. For those who are up to the challenge, and willing to assume the $60 cost as a liability :^), this was worth it for me. For a person like me that has spent their life as one who NEEDS to know how things work and has deconstructed/reconstructed many mechanisms, this one was a fun challenge.One thing to note, this item has no left handed threads. You will need to know this because of the force needed to dislodge some of the parts that are obviously “lock tight” glued. The threaded gimbal guide (as noted in the attached crude illustration) is one part that will need a strong open ended wrench that fits perfectly and a hammer to break it’s lock tight set. Keep the handled threaded pressure driver threaded into the “threaded gimpal guideline” to assure you don’t “ellipse” the threaded opening with the force and leverage needed to dislodge the glued threads. I had to resort to a crescent wrench (not an optimum choice). If using a crescent wrench, re establish the grip alignment and tighten the grip with the thumb screw adjusted before each whack with the hammer. Whack it about one to two inches from the threaded guide and along the crescent wrench (in a counter clockwise direction). The bolt that holds the horizontal gimbal bearing will require a long angled hex wrench short angled portion at the bolt, and long portion to apply turning pressure for best use of leverage, and a soft rubberized strap wrench to hold back-up. Again, this will most likely skin a knuckle or two before it gives up and allows you to loosen it.The horrible “goo” that is mentioned is best physically removed in bulk with disposable, rigid objects. I used popsicle sticks that were cut to having a square edge. Scoop and toss. The “goo” is NOT something you want touching anything you hold dear. When it’s mostly removed (thorough is a big word here), I used a squirt of WD40 on (many) paper towel (s) to remove the small amounts remaining.The machining tolerances of the one I received was excellent. At least in the two pivot bearings. Thus the reason I feel this is a keeper. I used a silicone oil with a Teflon additive as a grease replacement. The fit is so tight in those bearing areas, that grease has too high of a viscosity, and is part of the problem in the original assembly being way too stiff. That high tack goo that was used originally is even worse!I wanted to attach a video of the ease and accuracy of the two corrected pivots. Ease of pinky finger twirling, and absolutely no wobble, but this forum doesn’t allow attaching a video :^(In closing, if you are prone to self inflicted wounds from a hammer; have more money than time and patience, or have problems with cursing inanimate objects, this product may not be right for you. But if you are like me, and enjoy a challenge, have an aptitude for mechanical reverse engineering, and a reasonable collection of tools, solvents, and lubricants; beating this challenge may be for you :^)