This 3D printer went together fast. In the box is a USB stick with SD card with videos on assembly and software. Install the Elegoo Cura (thats the program you use to output files onto your SD card to print). Then watch the assembly video if needed, but directions were pretty clear with pictographs.After assembling I made a few quick test prints and they came out phenomenal with factory settings. To be honest, I had purchased an Ender 3 pro before I got this printer. I was semi- familiar with the process of 3D printing due to this. I've had NOTHING but bad luck with the Ender. Wasted TONS of filament and time. This printer hasn't had a failed print yet... im impressed!The process of outputting files to your card is called "slicing". Then that "slice" must be saved to the SD card as a .gcode file. Then you pop the SD card into the Elegoo and navigate to the gcode file and print it. The Elegoo Cura software is the program you can make changes to the model and fine tune the settings. Temperature, speed of print, support structures, thickness of the lines etc. are all done through the cura software. Its fairly intuitive and little info windows pop up to tell you about the area your hovering over...very helpful.There are a few draw backs to this machine but none would be a deal breaker.1. The print Head assembly is GIANT. This makes seeing smaller pieces being printed near impossible. The first few layers of a calibration cube for example are dwarfed by the enormous print head. Hard to check adhesion and print quality that way.2. The slot to insert the SD card is inset into the machine under the front of the build plate. It's hard to get the card inserted especially for an old fart like myself.3. You can NOT adjust the e-steps from the display pad. E-steps are the settings we use to "fine" tune the control motors. Y axis, X axis, and Z axis; Y being for and aft, X being right and left, Z being up and down. You can edjust the steps for filament dispensing but not the rest. In order to adjust and fine tune your printers e-steps you'd have to get software to output a programming gcode file. This means you'll need to learn a new software and programming style. It's not impossible but this isn't something you'll want to buy for gramma at Christmas as she will be lost. Hopefully in the future ELEGOO will update the firmware to include this ability.As for why it's important to adjust the e-steps... these control how far a motor is actually moving. Take a calibration cube for example. The dimensions of the finished cube are expected to be 20mm tall X 20mm high X 20mm wide. With an untuned e-step your cube may come out being 21mm X 19mm X 20.5 mm. This may not seem like a big deal, but in the grand scheme of things if we are printing items with threads or a certain diameter to fit into/onto something else we need them to print exact.Out of the box this printer was within a few tenths of a mm of being dead on. Make SURE to level your bed BEFORE you do anything. The bed must be at temperature and the nozzle at temperature as well. This is not in the instructions. If you set your level with them cold or room temp your plate to nozzle distance will decrease when you start a print. Things expand when you heat them and this will decrease the gap if you don't pre-heat.The second thing you need to do after leveling is measure and extrude some filament to set the e-step of the extruder. This will make sure your not pushing too much or too little filament out. Measure 120mm of filament from the top of the print head and make a mark there. Then after preheating the nozzle to the temp your filament needs to melt, command the printer to extrude 100mm of filament. Then measure the exact amount the filament traveled. Use that distance to calibrate your e-steps using this formula... yes you're going to get math on you.Your current e-steps programmed in the machine multiplied by 100 (thats the distance we wanted extruded). Take that number and divide it by the actual amount the filament traveled when you measured it. That number will be your new e-step setting.Once you've leveled the bed, and set your filament e-steps your ready to print. My first print was a threaded funnel for my new car. It threads in to where my oil cap is so I wanted to see how precise the prints were. See my pictures. Using default settings the print came out spectacular with nylon filament. True test was threading it into my car... it went right in with no issues.All in all this is an AWESOME printer. It BY FAR outperforms the Ender 3 pro. I've had the printer running non-stop for 4 days now and not a single issue with it. If your willing to tackle a bit of a learning curve with programming e-steps this could be an amazing printer. You will NOT be disappointed.