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OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray)

4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars 590 ratings

$32.99 $0.94 per Ounce
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Purchase options and add-ons

Brand OVERTURE
Material Nylon
Color Gray
Item Weight 1 Kilograms
Item Diameter 1.75 Millimeters

About this item

  • 【Odorless & Zero Warping】 This CoPA filament combines excellent strength, toughness, and heat resistance up to 180˚C. It delivers excellent printing quality with no Odor or warpage during printing. As the Nylon material is sensitive to moisture, please remember to put it back into a transparent bag
  • 【High Stability and Durability】 OVERTURE filament is based on a copolymer of Nylon 6 and Nylon 6.6, a strong and tough thermoplastic polymer. Great for creating parts which needs to be strong and durable. These Nylon filaments are excellent choice for engineering production or prototyping. PVA glue is always required for better adhesion
  • 【More Humanized Design & Easy to Use】 Grid layout on the surface for easy resizing; with length/ weight gauge and viewing hole on the reel so that you can easily figure out the remaining filaments; more filaments clip holes for fixing purpose on the reel; Larger spool inner diameter design makes feeding smoother
  • 【Dimensional Accuracy & Consistency】 Advanced CCD diameter measuring and self-adaptive control system in the manufacturing guarantee these Nylon filaments of 1.75 mm diameter, Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm; 1 kg spool (2.2lbs)
  • 【Risk-Free & Lifetime Guarantee】 Discover worry-free 3D printing with Overture filament—backed by our lifetime satisfaction guarantee. No matter the challenges, we're here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience. Trust Overture as your dependable supplier of 3D printing filaments and accessories

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OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray)
OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray)
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Price$32.99$15.99$38.99$99.00$29.99$81.99
Delivery
Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19
Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19
Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19
Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19
Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19
Get it as soon as Monday, May 20
Customer Ratings
Adhesion
4.2
3.1
4.4
4.7
4.2
3.9
Print Quality
3.3
4.4
4.5
4.2
3.9
Sheerness
4.1
3.4
4.8
4.4
Value for money
4.0
4.5
3.8
3.5
Accuracy
3.7
3.6
3.3
Sold By
OVERTURE 3D
comgrow
OVERTURE 3D
Edify-Technology INC
Polymaker LLC
iSANGHU
material
Nylon
PLA
Polycarbonate
Carbon Fiber, Nylon
Nylon
PA12 + Carbon Fiber
weight
1 kilograms
1 kilograms
2.2 pounds
1 kilograms
500 grams
2.5 pounds

From the brand


Product Description

Nylon Filament
Nylon Filament
Nylon Filament
Nylon Filament
Nylon Filament
Nylon Filament
Nylon Filament

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OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray)

OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray)


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Customer reviews

4.4 out of 5 stars
4.4 out of 5
590 global ratings

Customers say

Customers like the quality and ease of use of the thermoplastic filament. They mention that it prints well and is easy to use. Some are disappointed with the string. Opinions are mixed on quality, adhesion, durability, appearance, and temperature.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

49 customers mention36 positive13 negative

Customers like the print quality of the thermoplastic filament. They say it prints well, with little inaccuracy, and produces strong, stout prints. Some customers also mention that it prints pretty easily and clean, with good layer bonding and adhesion.

"...started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails)...." Read more

"...That's right, this filament prints more or less like PLA!!!!! And, my print was all but perfect. A tiny string coming off of one corner...." Read more

"...part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely...." Read more

"Excellent product, prints well with my CR-10 mini, starting with the first print, using settings provided in the box...." Read more

15 customers mention15 positive0 negative

Customers find the thermoplastic filament easy to use. They say it's a breeze to setup and running, and much easier to use than regular nylon. Customers also say it requires little to no extra knowledge to print with.

"...However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if..." Read more

"...That said, this is certainly easier than most, especially for pure nylon without any additional components...." Read more

"...That's a great way to describe this experience. It was easy. Almost PLA easy and much easier than I ever expected...." Read more

"...more with the settings but otherwise this material has been pretty easy to work with so far...." Read more

78 customers mention44 positive34 negative

Customers are mixed about the quality of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that it provides reliable results with excellent strength, and holds up well to use. However, others say that it's still stringy and the print itself is brittle.

"...quite as fast as PLA or anything, but you can get reliable results with excellent strength...." Read more

"...Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had..." Read more

"Excellent product, prints well with my CR-10 mini, starting with the first print, using settings provided in the box...." Read more

"...like a weird combination coming from a PA6 but it is a good balance between quality, strength, and speed for my printer...." Read more

26 customers mention13 positive13 negative

Customers have mixed opinions about the adhesion of the thermoplastic filament. Some say it sticks well to painters tape and a glass bed without adhesive, while others say that it's excessive and pulls the build plate off the bed.

"...size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts...." Read more

"...bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface...." Read more

"...Adhesion was perfect during print, released fairly easily when down to room temp. No moisture in filament. No warping off bed. Perfect part...." Read more

"I wanted to love it.. but the layer adhesion is not that great. failure rate is about 10-20% for small parts" Read more

18 customers mention9 positive9 negative

Customers are mixed about the durability of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that the part remains hard and resists its own warping, while others say that it warps badly, with deformities and layer separation.

"...No moisture in filament. No warping off bed. Perfect part...." Read more

"...That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build..." Read more

"...Print top & side surfaces have a glossy appearance. Parts are much more flexible than ASA, however, zip-like ties can't be pulled down as far as..." Read more

"...and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to..." Read more

11 customers mention6 positive5 negative

Customers are mixed about the appearance of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that it can look great but britty and flaky, while others say that the surface finish is absolutely horrible.

"...Print top & side surfaces have a glossy appearance...." Read more

"...some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to..." Read more

"...And the print still works, and looks rather handsome on my couch. So 5 stars. Well done Overture!..." Read more

"...However, the surface finish is absolutely horrible.This material cannot do overhangs of any degree or bridges whatsoever...." Read more

9 customers mention4 positive5 negative

Customers are mixed about the temperature of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that it stands up to heat pretty well, and the auto cooling feature is quite nice. However, others say that it gets pretty hot in there, and needs a heated enclosure for large parts. They also mention that the layer adhesion is basically non existent regardless of temperature.

"...Tried from 220 to 280. Starts to burn in the 270s. Shouldn’t even be flowing at 220 but it does easily. Cracks and all layers fall apart easily...." Read more

"...I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice...." Read more

"...a camper shell so it doesn't get direct sunlight, but it does get pretty hot in there. So far it's holding up just fine...." Read more

"...The strength and layer adhesion are amazing! The temperature resistance is super amazing...." Read more

7 customers mention0 positive7 negative

Customers are dissatisfied with the string. They mention that it's prone to stringing, and jams on the reel. Some mention that the roll was tangled and had a loose end.

"...And, my print was all but perfect. A tiny string coming off of one corner. Which, if you know 3D printing, that IS a perfect print...." Read more

"...It is much more prone to string than ASA, so tool paths need to be well considered, and tiny details could be tough, but I print mostly structural..." Read more

"...outside, but all the hollow areas (channels, holes, etc) were extremely stringy to the point I couldn't use the print...." Read more

"Good material - however was jammed/tangled on reel forcing me to rewind onto another reel. Could have damaged my printer." Read more

For thirty dollars I though why not, and was pleasantly surprised (after a bit of tuning)
5 Stars
For thirty dollars I though why not, and was pleasantly surprised (after a bit of tuning)
I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them.The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer.Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey.That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't.Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly.Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage.After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts.On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend.Here are my current printer settings:Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzleSpeeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere elseInfill: 40% (for roof quality)Nozzle temp: 260cHeatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layersRetracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden)Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer timeLayer height: 0.2 mmZ hop: noneAny other settings could be left stockHere is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters:https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/Here is the adhesive sheet:https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1Have fun printing!
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Top reviews from the United States

Reviewed in the United States on October 19, 2020
Color: BlackVerified Purchase
I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them.

The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer.

Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey.

That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't.

Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly.

Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage.

After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts.

On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend.

Here are my current printer settings:

Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle
Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else
Infill: 40% (for roof quality)
Nozzle temp: 260c
Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers
Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden)
Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Z hop: none
Any other settings could be left stock

Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters:
https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/

Here is the adhesive sheet:
https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1

Have fun printing!
Customer image
5.0 out of 5 stars For thirty dollars I though why not, and was pleasantly surprised (after a bit of tuning)
Reviewed in the United States on October 19, 2020
I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them.

The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer.

Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey.

That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't.

Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly.

Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage.

After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts.

On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend.

Here are my current printer settings:

Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle
Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else
Infill: 40% (for roof quality)
Nozzle temp: 260c
Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers
Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden)
Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Z hop: none
Any other settings could be left stock

Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters:
https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/

Here is the adhesive sheet:
https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1

Have fun printing!
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Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2021
Color: BlackVerified Purchase
This is my first time printing with Nylon since I started with 3D printing. I usually print with Overture's PLA, PLA Pro and PETG, also great products.

First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler.

After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements.

I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go.

My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding.

For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging).

I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad.

Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap.

Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament).

Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces.

For this print, here are my basic settings:

Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S)
Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0
Hot end: 250C
Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA)
Cooling fan: 50%
Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s
Print speed: 45mm/s
Bridge speed: 40mm/s
Bridge flow: 80%
Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile

Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings.

UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.
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5.0 out of 5 stars Yet another great filament from Overture 3D
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2021
This is my first time printing with Nylon since I started with 3D printing. I usually print with Overture's PLA, PLA Pro and PETG, also great products.

First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler.

After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements.

I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go.

My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding.

For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging).

I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad.

Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap.

Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament).

Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces.

For this print, here are my basic settings:

Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S)
Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0
Hot end: 250C
Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA)
Cooling fan: 50%
Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s
Print speed: 45mm/s
Bridge speed: 40mm/s
Bridge flow: 80%
Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile

Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings.

UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 25, 2023
My car mechanic is amazing, as is my service advisor, so as a token of appreciation I offered to help them fix another customer's car. The drive system for a motor-driven collapsible radio antenna had failed -- the nylon gear's teeth were damaged and they needed a replacement. I've never worked with nylon before, so this presented the perfect opportunity to learn. Component used: Overture Easy Nylon (dried in 1 gallon Ziploc bag with 100g silica desiccant for a couple weeks; Prusa MK3S+; 0.25 mm nozzle; custom bed of garolite, 3M double-stick tape, PEI metal sheet, garolite cleaned with 91% IPA; filament box 46 qt sealed box with 400g silica desiccant at measured humidity 25%. Settings used: nozzle temp 255C, bed temp 65C; first layer 0.2 mm height at 5mm/sec; higher layers 0.15 mm height 20 to 30mm speeds, outside perimeter at 5 mm/sec. Critical to the performance of this part is the shape of the gears, so I slowed the speeds down substantial. Adhesion was perfect during print, released fairly easily when down to room temp. No moisture in filament. No warping off bed. Perfect part. Of course, larger parts present more of a challenge -- I look forward to exploring more designs with this filament.
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5.0 out of 5 stars Printed Very Well First Time - Complex Helical Gear (auto part)
Reviewed in the United States on December 25, 2023
My car mechanic is amazing, as is my service advisor, so as a token of appreciation I offered to help them fix another customer's car. The drive system for a motor-driven collapsible radio antenna had failed -- the nylon gear's teeth were damaged and they needed a replacement. I've never worked with nylon before, so this presented the perfect opportunity to learn. Component used: Overture Easy Nylon (dried in 1 gallon Ziploc bag with 100g silica desiccant for a couple weeks; Prusa MK3S+; 0.25 mm nozzle; custom bed of garolite, 3M double-stick tape, PEI metal sheet, garolite cleaned with 91% IPA; filament box 46 qt sealed box with 400g silica desiccant at measured humidity 25%. Settings used: nozzle temp 255C, bed temp 65C; first layer 0.2 mm height at 5mm/sec; higher layers 0.15 mm height 20 to 30mm speeds, outside perimeter at 5 mm/sec. Critical to the performance of this part is the shape of the gears, so I slowed the speeds down substantial. Adhesion was perfect during print, released fairly easily when down to room temp. No moisture in filament. No warping off bed. Perfect part. Of course, larger parts present more of a challenge -- I look forward to exploring more designs with this filament.
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TA
3.0 out of 5 stars 寸法精度を出すのは厳しそう
Reviewed in Japan on June 10, 2023
PLA PROFESSIONAL Whiteを開封直後に使用。プチプチ音はなく、よく乾燥した状態でのレビューです。

【出力条件】
 機種はANYCUBIC Vyper
 簡単に条件出しして、ヘッド190℃、ベッド60℃、1層目速度40mm/s・以降60mm/s、ファン使用とした。
【出力物の質感】
 マット質感。間違いなくフィラー入り。
 色味は純白、コールドホワイト一歩手前くらい。
【強度・層間接着】
 Stiffness=堅さが高く、ImpactStrength=柔軟性は若干だけある。
 一般的なPLAより少しだけ壊れにくいかと。
 層間接着は190℃の低温出力でも良好なので、構造の工夫で強度が担保できる。
【ベッド定着】
 やや弱め。ケープ+ベッド加熱+ラフトかブリムを推奨。
【熱収縮率・寸法精度】
 熱収縮が大きく、寸法精度は安定しない。
 大型出力物では反ると思う。
 オーバーハングには強くも弱くもない。
 一般的なマットPLAを使っている感覚。

結論、小~中型の寸法にシビアでない出力物に向いている。
なんでマットPLAとして販売しないのかが謎。
3 people found this helpful
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taka
4.0 out of 5 stars 残り少なくなるともつれあり ← 間違いでした
Reviewed in Japan on May 28, 2023
いつも使用している他メーカーのフィラメントが品切れだったので、こちらを試してみました。
最初は綺麗に印刷されリピート品になるかなと思ったのですが、残り3分の1ぐらいになるともつれが酷くなり、供給がストップされてしまいました。
ーー 後日追記 ーー
もつれが酷いとレビューしましたが、私がフィラメント交換の際に先端が他のフィラメントの下に潜った状態で交換してしまっていたようです。 もつれを修正してから再セットして印刷するとその後もつれることはありませんでした。
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かずちゃん
4.0 out of 5 stars 割りと優秀なフィラメント
Reviewed in Japan on July 17, 2022
安価なフィラメントの中では個人的に優秀だと思います。
今まで細かい物の印刷時に糸状の副産物ができてしまいましたが、その点これは殆ど出来ません。
色味も質感もかなり満足しています!
RAY
2.0 out of 5 stars 一部評価変更
Reviewed in Japan on June 1, 2021
プリンターはADV3です。今までPLA+はeSun、ToAuTo、RepRapperを使ってきましたが、今回は容易に使えません、eSunかRepRapperに戻ります、残念。
温度は指定の190~220℃でふって試しましたが、コンコンして詰まる、スピードも70mm/sから初めてだめで結局40mm/sで安定。スプールの巻もいまいちで条件出し中に2回からみました。個人的にはPLAとしては使い難い。
ーーー追記修正ーーー
再度条件出しトライ中。温度は220-230℃ぐらいが成功率高くはなった。時々詰まる。他の材料で試すとうまくいくのですが。。。
販売元に相談したら、速やかに返金処理の提案がありました。その点は感謝です。
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