Manufacturer | OVERTURE |
---|---|
Brand | OVERTURE |
Item Weight | 2.2 pounds |
Package Dimensions | 8.82 x 8.15 x 2.91 inches |
Color | Gray |
Material Type | Nylon |
Number of Items | 1 |
Manufacturer Part Number | OVA175 |
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OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray)
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Return this item for free
Free returns are available for the shipping address you chose. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition: no shipping charges
Learn more about free returns.- Go to your orders and start the return
- Select the return method
- Ship it!
Purchase options and add-ons
Brand | OVERTURE |
Material | Nylon |
Color | Gray |
Item Weight | 1 Kilograms |
Item Diameter | 1.75 Millimeters |
About this item
- 【Odorless & Zero Warping】 This CoPA filament combines excellent strength, toughness, and heat resistance up to 180˚C. It delivers excellent printing quality with no Odor or warpage during printing. As the Nylon material is sensitive to moisture, please remember to put it back into a transparent bag
- 【High Stability and Durability】 OVERTURE filament is based on a copolymer of Nylon 6 and Nylon 6.6, a strong and tough thermoplastic polymer. Great for creating parts which needs to be strong and durable. These Nylon filaments are excellent choice for engineering production or prototyping. PVA glue is always required for better adhesion
- 【More Humanized Design & Easy to Use】 Grid layout on the surface for easy resizing; with length/ weight gauge and viewing hole on the reel so that you can easily figure out the remaining filaments; more filaments clip holes for fixing purpose on the reel; Larger spool inner diameter design makes feeding smoother
- 【Dimensional Accuracy & Consistency】 Advanced CCD diameter measuring and self-adaptive control system in the manufacturing guarantee these Nylon filaments of 1.75 mm diameter, Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm; 1 kg spool (2.2lbs)
- 【Risk-Free & Lifetime Guarantee】 Discover worry-free 3D printing with Overture filament—backed by our lifetime satisfaction guarantee. No matter the challenges, we're here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience. Trust Overture as your dependable supplier of 3D printing filaments and accessories
Save on 3D Printer Filaments by AmazonBasics |
PETG Filament, 1.75mm, Blue - 1kg | Premium PLA Filament, 1.75mm, Black, 1 kg Spool | PLA Filament, 1.75mm, Translucent Yellow, 1 kg Spool |
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This Item OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Gray) | Recommendations | dummy | dummy | dummy | dummy | |
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Price | $32.99$32.99 | $15.99$15.99 | $38.99$38.99 | $99.00$99.00 | $29.99$29.99 | $81.99$81.99 |
Delivery | Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19 | Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19 | Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19 | Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19 | Get it as soon as Sunday, May 19 | Get it as soon as Monday, May 20 |
Customer Ratings | ||||||
Adhesion | 4.2 | 3.1 | 4.4 | 4.7 | 4.2 | 3.9 |
Print Quality | — | 3.3 | 4.4 | 4.5 | 4.2 | 3.9 |
Sheerness | 4.1 | 3.4 | — | — | 4.8 | 4.4 |
Value for money | 4.0 | — | — | 4.5 | 3.8 | 3.5 |
Accuracy | 3.7 | — | 3.6 | — | 3.3 | — |
Sold By | OVERTURE 3D | comgrow | OVERTURE 3D | Edify-Technology INC | Polymaker LLC | iSANGHU |
material | Nylon | PLA | Polycarbonate | Carbon Fiber, Nylon | Nylon | PA12 + Carbon Fiber |
weight | 1 kilograms | 1 kilograms | 2.2 pounds | 1 kilograms | 500 grams | 2.5 pounds |
From the brand
OVERTURE 3D PRINTER FILAMENT
let's print with overture
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OVERTURE 3D is a team full of passions for 3D printing and believe it’s not just a technology, but also a trendy lifestyle, a new way to heal the world.
We shifted to paper spools in 2021 as we are always concerning the sustainability, the benefits from 3D printing.
“STAY HUNGRY, STAY FOOLISH”. OVERTURE is forever young, we are learning and changing all the time, but what won’t change are our enthusiasms to 3D printing and the love to our world.
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Product Description
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Technical Details
Additional Information
ASIN | B087R3WY6T |
---|---|
Customer Reviews |
4.4 out of 5 stars |
Best Sellers Rank | #11,576 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific) #259 in 3D Printing Filament |
Date First Available | April 27, 2020 |
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Customer reviews
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonCustomers say
Customers like the quality and ease of use of the thermoplastic filament. They mention that it prints well and is easy to use. Some are disappointed with the string. Opinions are mixed on quality, adhesion, durability, appearance, and temperature.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers like the print quality of the thermoplastic filament. They say it prints well, with little inaccuracy, and produces strong, stout prints. Some customers also mention that it prints pretty easily and clean, with good layer bonding and adhesion.
"...started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails)...." Read more
"...That's right, this filament prints more or less like PLA!!!!! And, my print was all but perfect. A tiny string coming off of one corner...." Read more
"...part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely...." Read more
"Excellent product, prints well with my CR-10 mini, starting with the first print, using settings provided in the box...." Read more
Customers find the thermoplastic filament easy to use. They say it's a breeze to setup and running, and much easier to use than regular nylon. Customers also say it requires little to no extra knowledge to print with.
"...However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if..." Read more
"...That said, this is certainly easier than most, especially for pure nylon without any additional components...." Read more
"...That's a great way to describe this experience. It was easy. Almost PLA easy and much easier than I ever expected...." Read more
"...more with the settings but otherwise this material has been pretty easy to work with so far...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the quality of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that it provides reliable results with excellent strength, and holds up well to use. However, others say that it's still stringy and the print itself is brittle.
"...quite as fast as PLA or anything, but you can get reliable results with excellent strength...." Read more
"...Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had..." Read more
"Excellent product, prints well with my CR-10 mini, starting with the first print, using settings provided in the box...." Read more
"...like a weird combination coming from a PA6 but it is a good balance between quality, strength, and speed for my printer...." Read more
Customers have mixed opinions about the adhesion of the thermoplastic filament. Some say it sticks well to painters tape and a glass bed without adhesive, while others say that it's excessive and pulls the build plate off the bed.
"...size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts...." Read more
"...bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface...." Read more
"...Adhesion was perfect during print, released fairly easily when down to room temp. No moisture in filament. No warping off bed. Perfect part...." Read more
"I wanted to love it.. but the layer adhesion is not that great. failure rate is about 10-20% for small parts" Read more
Customers are mixed about the durability of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that the part remains hard and resists its own warping, while others say that it warps badly, with deformities and layer separation.
"...No moisture in filament. No warping off bed. Perfect part...." Read more
"...That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build..." Read more
"...Print top & side surfaces have a glossy appearance. Parts are much more flexible than ASA, however, zip-like ties can't be pulled down as far as..." Read more
"...and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to..." Read more
Customers are mixed about the appearance of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that it can look great but britty and flaky, while others say that the surface finish is absolutely horrible.
"...Print top & side surfaces have a glossy appearance...." Read more
"...some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to..." Read more
"...And the print still works, and looks rather handsome on my couch. So 5 stars. Well done Overture!..." Read more
"...However, the surface finish is absolutely horrible.This material cannot do overhangs of any degree or bridges whatsoever...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the temperature of the thermoplastic filament. Some mention that it stands up to heat pretty well, and the auto cooling feature is quite nice. However, others say that it gets pretty hot in there, and needs a heated enclosure for large parts. They also mention that the layer adhesion is basically non existent regardless of temperature.
"...Tried from 220 to 280. Starts to burn in the 270s. Shouldn’t even be flowing at 220 but it does easily. Cracks and all layers fall apart easily...." Read more
"...I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice...." Read more
"...a camper shell so it doesn't get direct sunlight, but it does get pretty hot in there. So far it's holding up just fine...." Read more
"...The strength and layer adhesion are amazing! The temperature resistance is super amazing...." Read more
Customers are dissatisfied with the string. They mention that it's prone to stringing, and jams on the reel. Some mention that the roll was tangled and had a loose end.
"...And, my print was all but perfect. A tiny string coming off of one corner. Which, if you know 3D printing, that IS a perfect print...." Read more
"...It is much more prone to string than ASA, so tool paths need to be well considered, and tiny details could be tough, but I print mostly structural..." Read more
"...outside, but all the hollow areas (channels, holes, etc) were extremely stringy to the point I couldn't use the print...." Read more
"Good material - however was jammed/tangled on reel forcing me to rewind onto another reel. Could have damaged my printer." Read more
Reviews with images
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Top reviews from the United States
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The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer.
Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey.
That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't.
Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly.
Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage.
After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts.
On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend.
Here are my current printer settings:
Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle
Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else
Infill: 40% (for roof quality)
Nozzle temp: 260c
Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers
Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden)
Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Z hop: none
Any other settings could be left stock
Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters:
https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/
Here is the adhesive sheet:
https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1
Have fun printing!
Reviewed in the United States on October 19, 2020
The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer.
Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey.
That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't.
Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly.
Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage.
After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts.
On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend.
Here are my current printer settings:
Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle
Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else
Infill: 40% (for roof quality)
Nozzle temp: 260c
Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers
Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden)
Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Z hop: none
Any other settings could be left stock
Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters:
https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/
Here is the adhesive sheet:
https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1
Have fun printing!
First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler.
After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements.
I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go.
My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding.
For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging).
I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad.
Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap.
Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament).
Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces.
For this print, here are my basic settings:
Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S)
Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0
Hot end: 250C
Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA)
Cooling fan: 50%
Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s
Print speed: 45mm/s
Bridge speed: 40mm/s
Bridge flow: 80%
Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile
Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings.
UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2021
First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler.
After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements.
I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go.
My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding.
For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging).
I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad.
Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap.
Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament).
Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces.
For this print, here are my basic settings:
Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S)
Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0
Hot end: 250C
Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA)
Cooling fan: 50%
Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s
Print speed: 45mm/s
Bridge speed: 40mm/s
Bridge flow: 80%
Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile
Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings.
UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.
Reviewed in the United States on December 25, 2023
Top reviews from other countries
【出力条件】
機種はANYCUBIC Vyper
簡単に条件出しして、ヘッド190℃、ベッド60℃、1層目速度40mm/s・以降60mm/s、ファン使用とした。
【出力物の質感】
マット質感。間違いなくフィラー入り。
色味は純白、コールドホワイト一歩手前くらい。
【強度・層間接着】
Stiffness=堅さが高く、ImpactStrength=柔軟性は若干だけある。
一般的なPLAより少しだけ壊れにくいかと。
層間接着は190℃の低温出力でも良好なので、構造の工夫で強度が担保できる。
【ベッド定着】
やや弱め。ケープ+ベッド加熱+ラフトかブリムを推奨。
【熱収縮率・寸法精度】
熱収縮が大きく、寸法精度は安定しない。
大型出力物では反ると思う。
オーバーハングには強くも弱くもない。
一般的なマットPLAを使っている感覚。
結論、小~中型の寸法にシビアでない出力物に向いている。
なんでマットPLAとして販売しないのかが謎。
最初は綺麗に印刷されリピート品になるかなと思ったのですが、残り3分の1ぐらいになるともつれが酷くなり、供給がストップされてしまいました。
ーー 後日追記 ーー
もつれが酷いとレビューしましたが、私がフィラメント交換の際に先端が他のフィラメントの下に潜った状態で交換してしまっていたようです。 もつれを修正してから再セットして印刷するとその後もつれることはありませんでした。
今まで細かい物の印刷時に糸状の副産物ができてしまいましたが、その点これは殆ど出来ません。
色味も質感もかなり満足しています!
温度は指定の190~220℃でふって試しましたが、コンコンして詰まる、スピードも70mm/sから初めてだめで結局40mm/sで安定。スプールの巻もいまいちで条件出し中に2回からみました。個人的にはPLAとしては使い難い。
ーーー追記修正ーーー
再度条件出しトライ中。温度は220-230℃ぐらいが成功率高くはなった。時々詰まる。他の材料で試すとうまくいくのですが。。。
販売元に相談したら、速やかに返金処理の提案がありました。その点は感謝です。