I first acquired this epoxy to repair a custom, cast, resin, wall sculpture of a Great Blue Heron (in flight) that a visitor had removed and dropped, causing it to shatter into four pieces along its four foot wing span.
Initially, I also purchased three foot long, aluminum braces to reinforce the sculpture’s wing span. To my amazement, with only a modest amount of this Gorilla-brand epoxy applied to the joints between the broken pieces — and no structural reinforcements — the entire wing span of the sculpture is fused with such strength and rigidity that I can support the entire weight of the sculpture (80 lbs.) at anywhere along the wing span without it flexing or coming apart. This is really astounding.
The entire sculpture may actually be materially stronger than before the repair. For safe measure, I added a smear of the epoxy along the back side of the sculpture along all along the fracture joints. It is now so rigid and strongly bound that I can tap the tips of the wings and the entire sculpture resonates like a metal gong, which means it is, for all practical purposes, fused into a uni-body entity.
Some tips:
1. There’s a plastic wand wedged between the push-rods of the dual syringe. You need to break this wand out of there to be able to fully depress the syringe. Personally, I found a wooden popsicle stick to make a much better wand for mixing the epoxy and applying it.
2. You’ll know that the epoxy components (resin and hardener) are properly mixed when you can smell a temporary stink like rotten eggs. Soon after, the epoxy will catalyze and generate heat. From that point, you have 5 minutes to apply the epoxy before it starts to thicken and set. Thus, to maximize your work time, you can start applying the epoxy as soon as your smell the pungent stink. The stink goes away as soon as the epoxy starts to set. Full strength and cure, which is when no tackiness can be felt in the epoxy, occurs at around 24 hours,
3. The epoxy has a thick consistency, like honey. It fills small gaps extremely well and will self-level to an extent, removing brush strokes and smoothing over depressions. It is clear with a very slight amber tint. It goes on clear and cures to a clear, tough-as-nails finish.
4. I recommend wearing nitrile gloves as you work with this epoxy, as if it gets on your skin, you’ll need acetone to remove it. Acetone is very effective at breaking down this epoxy before it cures. However, once it cures, the acetone will not soften or dissolve it.
5. If you want to shape or flatten the epoxy — on the back of a sculpture for example — after it sets, you can lay the side of the item with the epoxy against a polyethylene sheet on a level floor or table top. The epoxy sticks like crazy to resin, metals, wood, stone, glass, leather but will not adhere to polyethylene plastic. After the epoxy cures, you can pull away the polyethylene sheet and the epoxy will be hard and smooth like glass. It will bond strongly to 3D printed thermoplastics like PLA.
6. As long as you keep the resin and hardener separate, these components will last a surprisingly long time. Working over several days to join each fractured piece of the sculpture, I left the nozzles of the double syringe uncovered and the epoxy components easily remained viable for several days. For longer term keeping on any open syringe, just stretch a section of duct tape over the nozzles.
7. Where a really clean joint is needed, applying the epoxy to just one side and pressing the parts together will give surprisingly strong adhesion. However, for maximum strength, I recommend applying epoxy to both sides of a joint and letting a “bead” ooze out along the joint. On the cosmetic side of your project, the bead can be smoothed out before the epoxy cures. I recommend leaving the raised bead on the non-cosmetic back side of any such workpiece, and after it cures, coming back with more epoxy to smear over the bead to create a wider seam patch for maximum joint strength. The fresh epoxy adheres well to any old cured epoxy. The stuff is for certain a resin, and will practically weld any resin components into a rigid uni-body.
This epoxy lives up to its brand name of being gorilla strong.
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| Explore More from Gorilla | Gorilla Ultimate Epoxy Black | Gorilla Epoxy Putty | Original Gorilla Glue | Gorilla Max Strength Construction Adhesive | Gorilla Ultimate Construction Adhesive | Gorilla All Weather Outdoor Waterproof Duct Tape |
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Reviews with images
Snowboard Repair
Some idiot ran into me and damaged my snow board I used this to glue back the top layer that was scraped off. The instructions were perfect and the product was easy to use.. It has a strong smell when using so a well ventilated area is important
